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Friday, May 22, 2020

Pre-Soviet Uzbekistan Captured In Perfect Colour

RFE/RL’s photographer, Amos Chapple, recently published a fascinating photo essay about a 1907 trip to Uzbekistan by Russian photographer Sergey Prokudin-Gorsky, one of the pioneers of photographic colour prints.

As well as recognizing the pre-restoration buidlings, many Uzbek Journeys clients will be familiar with Prokudin-Gorsky's photos from his 6-year travels in the Russian empire from 1909. That trip had been commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II, who also provided a railroad-car darkroom. Those photographs are often displayed in Uzbek museums.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
Sergei Prokudin-Gorsky (second from left) waiting in vain for a break in the clouds to observe a solar eclipse from Central Asia’s Tien-Shan mountains on January 1, 1907

The 1907 trip was to observe a solar eclipse from Central Asia's Tien-Shian mountains. Mr  Chapple's text, captions and Prokudin'Gorsky's images are reproduced below.

Several years before he was famously commissioned by the tsar to photograph the Russian Empire in color, chemist Prokudin-Gorsky set off on an expedition to what is now Uzbekistan to observe a solar eclipse.

The weeks-long trip failed in its main goal after cloud cover blocked any glimpse of the eclipse, but the journey was not a lost cause. With his German-made camera that enabled vivid color images to be produced, Prokudin-Gorsky explored the backstreets and ancient centers of Samarkand and Bukhara, capturing photographs unlike any that had been taken before.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
A carpenter strips bark from fresh timber on a back road in Samarkand.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
An Islamic shrine stands inside the Bahoutdin Architectural Complex on the outskirts of Bukhara. The heavily-restored shrine still stands.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
Men pose outside an Islamic school in Samarkand.

Prokudin-Gorsky perfected an early method of colour photography that required three separate images of each scene to be shot with colour filters. When the three images were sandwiched together and had red, green, and blue light shone through them, a color image could be projected.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
A view over central Samarkand from Registan Square

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
A woman in a burqa stands outside a residence in Samarkand
Prokudin-Gorsky made three trips to what is now Uzbekistan but was then part of the Russian Empire.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
Men sell medicinal products in Samarkand

Prokudin-Gorsky’s first trip to Central Asia was for the abortive 1907 attempt to record the solar eclipse, the second and third were in 1911 after he received backing from the tsar to photograph the Russian Empire.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
Bukhara's interior minister with a ceremonial sword
It is unclear when the more than 200 photos Prokudin-Gorsky shot in Central Asia were taken, but photos like this -- of Bukhara's interior minister with a ceremonial sword, which required access to government buildings -- were probably made during the 1911 expeditions, when the photographer had a letter of recommendation from the tsar.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
Two shackled prisoners from Bukhara’s notorious dungeon
The photo above was taken just a few meters from the "bug pit" where two British officers, Stoddart and Conolly were tortured before eventually being beheaded in 1842 by the emir of Bukhara.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
Men are held in the "debtors prison" inside the Bukhara dungeon
Bukharans who owed either taxes to the government or money to other people were held in the prison but allowed out to work until they had repaid their debts.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
A building inside the emir's palace in Bukhara
A local historian advised that this building was destroyed during the 1920 Soviet invasion of the ancient city.

Sergei Prokudin Gorsky photography uzbekistan, prokudin gorsky central asian photos, art craft textile tours central asia
Sunlight illuminates Samarkand’s Shah-i-Zinda Mosque, one of Samarkand’s most important cemeteries
After the 1917 Bolshevik Revolution, Prokudin-Gorsky fled Russia and eventually settled in Paris. Soon after his death in 1944, the U.S. Library Of Congress purchased 1,902 images -- including more than 200 shot in Central Asia -- from the great photographer's relatives.

Related posts:
Ernst Cohn-Wiener Collection: Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan 1924 - 1925
Paul Nadar's Images of Turkestan 1890
Strolling Through Samarkand in 1930
Khudaybergen Divanov - Father of Uzbek Photography 

Monday, May 4, 2020

Life on the Margins: The Lyuli People of Uzbekistan

uzbekistan lyuli minority, uzbekistan small group tours, central asian art craft textiles
A young man from the Lyuli community in Uzbekistan's southern province of Surxondaryo.
Image: Aleksandr Barkovsky
Managing editor of Global Voices, Filip Noubel, recently interviewed Uzbek conceptual artist Aleksandr Barkovsky about the time he spent with the Lyuli people.

More than 50 ethnic groups live in Uzbekistan. The Lyuli community lives on the margins of Uzbek society, often discriminated because of their ethnicity.

The Lyuli are believed to be distantly related to the Roma and Sinti people of Europe and the Middle East, but their origins are obscure. As such, there is currently little consensus on how to best describe this community in English.

In Russian, the most commonly used term is "цыгане" — usually translated into English as "Gypsies", which is widely considered derogatory and has largely been replaced by the word "Roma."

According to a 2019 study conducted by Uzbek researcher Kamilla Zakirova:

"Central Asia's [Roma] are usually called Lyuli. The Lyuli describe themselves using the term Mughat, an Iranian term meaning "fire cult followers," which is applied to Zoroastrians. They have inhabited the territories of Central Asia for centuries, ever since their ancestors migrated from the Punjab in present day Pakistan. There are no accurate contemporary data on the Lyuli population because it does not participate in the government conducted census and many members of the Lyuli population never obtain legal documents". 

The interview is published with permission.

Filip Noubel: What is the main social issue the Lyuli face today?

Aleksandr Barkovsky: The issue of education. There is an unspoken consensus that education is unattainable and partially not needed. The reasons for this lie on both sides, as the Roma people maintain patriarchal traditions and thus the head of the clan, a man who concentrates all the authority, makes decisions not in favour of education but in favour of the rules established in the community. Most people think that as the Lyuli choose not to pursue education, giving them a chance to study and learn different skills is meaningless. Yet if one surveys the community, one can find many Lyuli who want to change their lives. Adults say that they want “a better life for their children,” and understand that the only way to achieve that is to get good quality education.


uzbekistan lyuli minority, uzbekistan small group tours, central asian art craft textiles
Lyuli family in a Russian Orthodox cemetery in Tashkent at Easter, when it is tradition to eat near gravestones.
Image: Aleksandr Barkovsky

 FN: Does that mean Lyuli children really have no access to education?


AB: One of the biggest problems is the fact that Lyuli children are deprived of their childhood. Lyuli families have many children, but only half or even less survive. From the very first weeks of infancy, the mother takes her child downtown where she walks under the scorching sun or in the snow holding her kid in one hand and begging with the other. As a result, children absorb with their mother's milk an image of the world that dominated by begging, deprivation, humiliation, and constant beatings.

FN: What is the status of women in the community?

AB: Women do not have an equal status to men in Roma society. They do not have the same rights, but they have many obligations. They have to give birth to many children whether they want to or not —a large family is a way to gain respect among the community, and the first question [women] get is how many children they have. The only chance for female education is before marriage, and that is extremely rare. Particularly because marriages are held at a very young age; girls are married at the age of 14 or 15.

FN: Does religion play an important role in the life of the Lyuli Roma?

AB: The Lyuli Roma identify as Sunni Muslims. They observe prayers, as well as all the other religious requirements and celebrations. In lay Muslim society they face discrimination from Uzbeks and Tajiks, who do not consider them “real” Muslims because of pagan elements to their religious practices, their caste system, and worship of fire. The Lyuli community's understanding of Islam is more about a popular Islamic spiritualism combined with elements of the pre-Islamic past, which remain to this day in the lives of the Lyuli Roma.


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A Lyuli couple in a tent camp outside Tashkent. Image: Aleksandr Barkovsky


 FN: What is the government's approach to the social issues faced by the community?

AB: The main reason why the Lyuli Roma lack social protection is the simple fact that nobody knows anything about them. Where do they live? How many of them are there? Whatever policy the government implements, it will have no effect. That's why in order to protect their constitutional rights, what's needed is transparency and more information.

Related posts:
Uzbek-Korean Connections
The Greek Community of Uzbekistan
Langston Hughes: An African American Writer in Central Asia in the 1930s